General Liability Insurance for Small Business

http://www.caasco.com/insurance/small-business-insurance/business-insurance-overview.jsp

Landscape Design for Beginners Part 4

The next triad of principles for home landscape design, like proportion, transition and unity, are interrelated: namely, rhythm, balance and focalization. They all pertain to controlling a viewer's eye movement. Rhytm in general is the patterned repetition of a motif. In your home landscape design, the motif could consist of the landscaping plants used, for instance. Landscaping plants of one type could be planted in a row or hedge, effectively channeling the viewer's gaze in one direction, rather than another. The essential element here is line, since nothing controls eye movement more readily than a straight line.

The objective of utilizing such a motif is to direct eye movement, unconsciously, in a manner that is most conducive to appreciating the home landscape design in question. For instance, perhaps the situation of your land holds the potential for a magnificent vista, but your current home landscape design does not take full advantage of it. Or perhaps you have a piece of statuary in your front yard that you want to show off. But if your front yard is full of other interesting items, it might be too "busy" for that item to receive sufficient focus. These and other problems of rhythm can be solved through an understanding of balance and focalization

Balance refers to consistency of visual attraction and applies to all five of the basic elements: consistency with form, with texture, etc. Understanding balance is, in turn, important for an understanding of focalization. Focalization is the forcing of the viewer’s perspective to a focal point. While it can be achieved through various means, more intense focalization is created through the use of balanced, consistent arrangements of elements.

Let's return, then, to the two problems of home landscape design introjected above. The first is a problem of framing and can be solved by using bold, straight lines. In the photo on Part 3, for instance, a wall serves this purpose (a row of trees could also have been used). The second, a problem of drawing attention to one component in a busy front yard, could be solved by reducing clutter, opting instead for a minimalist style; and through the use either of color or of line. The statue could be surrounded with color that would direct the viewer's eye (focalization) unconsciously to that area. Using landscaping plants with flowers that are red or yellow en masse would do the trick nicely. So would an appropriate use of line. For instance, a straight path of paving stones leading up to the statuary, or bedding plants arranged so as to form a straight edging that will focus the viewer's gaze in the intended direction.

It will be seen from the foregoing discussion that the principles of home landscape design refer to nothing more ethereal than simply arranging the landscaping plants selected in combinations that bespeak a well-reasoned plan. While not pretending to be an exhaustive discussion, the above examples should nonetheless serve to allay the do-it-yourselfer's fears that home landscape design is the exclusive province of wizards with unfathomable powers. Home landscape design is the province not of wizardry, but of planning, problem-solving and a "principled" approach.

Landscape Design for Beginners Part 3

Three principles of garden design apply to the overall "feel" of the landscape: namely, proportion, transition and unity. Landscape plants should be arranged so as to conform to these principles. Proportion is the sense that the size of the individual components (the landscape plants) or groups of components in a landscape is consistent with the landscape as a whole. In other words, the idea behind proportion is very similar to that behind the basic element, scale. But the difference is that, while "scale" is a neutral term, "proportion" is based on the premise that something is either "in proportion" or "out of proportion." A garden design that is out of proportion is one that is marred by abrupt transitions or by the lack of transition. For instance, a five-foot high stone wall might elegantly set off a large home, but would make a small home look all the smaller. The landscaping of the latter suffers from a lack of transition: the height of the wall is too close to that of the house. Transision, simply put, refers to gradual change.

Conforming to a sense of proportion is, in turn, one characteristic of a landscape or garden design that exhibits unity. Unity, or "harmony" has been achieved when the viewer senses that all the landscape plants in a garden design complement each other and have been chosen with one over-arching theme in mind. The placement of landscape plants in a thoughtful manner regarding their form is one method for promoting a unified feel. For instance, small trees flanking a driveway or an entrance should have the same form. Repetition also promotes unity. Like all good things, however, unity can be pushed too far. Introduce some variety, or "contrast" into a landscape, too. One way is through the use of landscape plants that vary in texture. The element, texture is subtle enough that it can be employed to inject variety into a garden design without destroying unity.

Landscape Design for Beginners Part 2

You may wonder what seemingly abstract terms like "form" have to do with backyard landscape design. You may object that you're not painting a landscape, after all; you're just putting plants in the ground. Yet it is not coincidental that backyard landscape design shares some terminology with the world of art. The backyard is your canvas; your landscape design skills will determine the beauty of the resulting picture.

The element of form is defined as the shape of a plant and the structure of its branching pattern. For a picture illustrating form, see Part 1. Trees come in many shapes (especially if pruned), including columnar and globular shapes. Likewise, tree forms range structurally from having the stiffly upright branches of Lombardy poplar trees to the droopy quality of a weeping willow. The form of individual components of a plant also needs to be considered. For example, the leaf form of one type of tree can be very different from that of another type of tree. Relative leaf size, meanwhile, helps determine plant texture.

Since texture is primarily a visual matter in landscape design, we often rely on the relative size of a plant's leaves to draw conclusions about its perceived texture. Yes, plant texture is highly relative: it refers to how the surface of the object is perceived, relative to the objects around it. Thus the plant texture of one bedding plant, for example, might be considered more or less coarse than that of an adjacent plant, due to differences in leaf size.

The element of line refers to the fact that the viewer's eye movement or flow can be governed by the arrangement of plants and their borders. Eye movement is unconsciously influenced by the way plant groupings fit or flow together, both on the horizontal and vertical planes. For a picture illustrating line, see Page 3.

Enough about the basic elements, you say? Good: let's move on to the principles you'll apply to your backyard landscape design. Because the effective application of these principles in your own backyard can raise the value of your real estate signficantly.

With the basic elements defined, it is time to put them to practical use. In planning a landscape design it is necessary to work with the "principles" that stem directly from the basic elements. How effectively you implement these principles will determine the impact of your landscaping upon the viewer -be it yourself or a prospective buyer.

Since this introduction to backyard landscape design is meant as a practical guide, the goal is not to provide abstract definitions, but examples that the do-it-yourselfer can implement immediately in a backyard landscape design. In the following discussion of the principles of landscape design on Part 3, note how often the basic elements from Pages 1 and 2 appear. If you understand these five basic elements from Pages 1 and 2, then the following examples on Part 3 should demystify the process of using those elements to apply the principles of backyard landscape design....

Landscape Design for Beginners

Designing a Garden: Landscape Design for Do-It-Yourselfers

"Landscape design." Sounds rather imposing, doesn't it? And, to be sure, one could spend years studying all the ideas in the field of garden or landscape design. But what about the do-it-yourselfer who wants to give a lawn a makeover, or wishes to tinker with designing a garden? If you need to spruce up the landscape design of a house that you are about to sell, or if you simply want to enjoy an enhanced beauty in the privacy of your backyard, you could profit from a straightforward, no-nonsense look at the ideas behind designing a garden, supplemented with hands-on project guides.

Ever wonder about the secrets underlying the magic art of the landscape designer? Well, this resource translates that "magic," making it understandable for the do-it-yourselfer. Study these photos illustrating landscape design ideas and learn about the concepts the pros employ.

View pictures: Landscape Design Explained Through Pictures

Landscape Design Projects in Pictures

Or perhaps you'd rather skip the concepts and get right down to some projects that will beautify your yard? The following resources will allow you to do just that, providing precise instructions and lots of pictures:

• How to Build Garden Fountains
• How to Build Rock Gardens
• How to Plant Flower Beds
• How to Plant Hedges

Understanding the Language of Landscape Design

Whenever you put something together yourself, you are engaged in designing, however humble the project. Sometimes we take our designing skills for granted, because what we're putting together is so commonplace for us that we are no longer conscious of the designing process. For instance, you are employing designing techniques when you compose a letter to send to somebody. Your basic "elements" to accomplish such a task include vocabulary, spelling and grammar. Somewhat more complex elements, or "principles" build directly on the basic elements. Letter-writing principles include conveying your ideas clearly and coming across as a courteous, intelligent individual. Your success with these principles will largely determine whether or not your letter achieves its ultimate objective.

And so it is with landscape design. Do-it-yourselfers must first learn the basic designing elements that underlie the discipline of landscape design. These fundamental elements will then serve as building blocks for learning and implementing the more advanced principles for designing a garden in the backyard. These tried and true principles are the cornerstones of the world's picture-perfect gardens.

The basic elements of landscape design are:

• Color, as defined by color theory
• Form
• Line
  
• Scale
• Texture
  

These five elements must be considered in designing both the hardscape and softscape of your property, the latter consisting mainly of gardens, lawns, shrubs and trees. I discuss form, line and texture in this article. I explain the use of color in my article on color theory. As for scale, it is simply the size of one component relative to adjacent components.

How To Repair Sagging Fence Gates: Hanging Fence Gates

If you need to fix a sagging fence gate, it’s not hard to figure out where the problem lies. Whether a fence gate is made of wood or metal, it usually has only three main elements: the posts on either side, which support it; the fence gate panel or a pair of panels, usually framed as an oblong or square; and sets of metal hinges. The hinges attach the fence gate panel to the post and allow it to swing freely open and closed. Most fence gates have one hinge at the bottom and another at the top. If a fence gate is sagging, the problem is usually the supporting posts, the hinge connection or both.

Difficulty: Average

Time Required: One to two hours

Here's How:

1. Examine both gateposts. Check the gateposts to make sure they are level (perfectly horizontal) and plumb (perfectly straight vertically). One or both of your gateposts may not be exactly upright. You can eyeball this, or use a spirit level for greater accuracy.
2. Examine the hinges on the fence gate. On fence gates, each hinge is typically attached with two sets of lag bolts. A lag bolt (sometimes called a lag screw) is a steel screw used for wood projects. It looks like a screw, but the top is flat, thick, and hexagonal. Note the size of the bolt — 1/4-inch, 1/2-inch and 3/8-inch are common lag bolt sizes — in case you have to replace one that is rusted or missing.
3. Disconnect the bottom hinge first. Even if the hinge looks perfectly fine, go ahead and disconnect it by removing the lag bolts with a ratchet or open-ended box wrench.
4. Now, tackle the top hinge. Partially disconnect the hinge by removing only the lower lag bolt.
5. Lift and shore up the leaning post. Set stones, bricks or blocks around the post to prop it up to the desired upright position. A spirit level will give you an accurate reading. You may have to dig around the post to reset it or replace a wooden one that has warped or rotted.
6. Reset the top hinge. Once the post is level, reattach the lower lag bolt on the top hinge. Tighten it securely with a ratchet or wrench. Use blocks or stones to prop the fence gate erect or have a helper hold the fence gate steady and straight.
7. Next, reset the bottom hinge. Don’t be surprised if you have to reposition the holes in the post: The old holes no longer match up due to wear. Rather than lift the fence gate, your best option is to drill new holes so that the fence gate remains aligned. Moving the hinge just this small amount will correct the angle and prevent the fence gate from sagging. Use a drill to make new holes that are slightly smaller than the screw you’ll use to attach the hinge. For example, use a 3/16-inch drill bit for a 1/4-inch screw.
8. Replace the lag bolts on the bottom hinge. Tighten all the bolts on the top and bottom hinges and either oil the hinges or spray them with WD-40 or a similar lubricant so the fence gate will swing freely without creaking. Repeat these steps on the other gatepost if necessary.

Tips:

1. Heavy or long fence gates (such as a wooden driveway fence gates) may need additional support to keep them from sagging again. Installing guy wires — strong metal wiring that attaches fence gates to the tops of their posts — can help keep them level. You may want to check out fence gate wire kits for this purpose; these usually contain all the parts required in a single package.
2. Editor's note: A reader wrote to disagree with the advice supplied in this article for hanging fence gates, saying, "The author writes 'If a fence gate is sagging, the problem is usually the supporting posts, the hinge connection or both.' That's incorrect. The usual cause of a 'sagging gate' is the failure or the absence of a correctly installed diagonal brace." On the latter point, said reader elaborates as follows: "Based on all that I have seen and read elsewhere, the correct way to install the diagonal support to prevent sagging is from the bottom hinge side to the top latch side."

What You Need:

• Spirit level
• Ratchet or open-ended box wrench that fits hexagonal (6-sided) bolts
• Drill
• Replacement hinge or replacement lag bolts if needed
• Oil or WD-40 for the hinge

Wrought Iron Gates, Wood Gates

Types of Driveway Gates, Cost

Having trouble choosing between the different types of driveway gates, such as wrought iron gates? You may like the look of wood gates, but is a wood gate the best choice for your particular driveway? If you choose metal over wood but conclude that wrought iron gates would wreak too much havoc with your budget, what other types of metal driveway gates are available? I recently conducted an interview on the different types of driveway gates with professional landscape designer, Paul Corsetti in search of answers to such questions. A portion of the interview is contained in the following Q&A:

Q. I see a fair number of wrought iron gates in my area. What are some of the other popular types of driveway gates at this time in North America? Could you briefly discuss the pros and cons of wrought iron gates and other types of driveway gates (cost, durability, etc.)?

A. Well that all depends on the width of the driveway. If it is a large driveway width, then the material for the driveway gate has to be strong enough to span that distance, so steel or wrought iron gates would be used. In some cases a heavy gage cast aluminium driveway gate would be used to cut costs down. If the driveway is of a shorter width, then you can almost consider a wood driveway gate. With a wood driveway gate, you need to consider its durability and, and it must be designed properly and have proper fasteners, hinges and latches. The main factor to consider is whether it will warp and sag under its own weight with repeated opening and closing.

With wrought iron gates (and others made of metal), you can be assured that they will keep their structure intact for years to come as long as the pillars they are secured to are built with a proper base. Some of the wrought iron gates, etc. may, after a while, cause rust stains on light colored driveways.

Q. Tell us more about wood gates, Paul. Comparing wood gates to other types of driveway gates in terms of cost versus quality, how would you rate wood gates? Under what circumstances might a consumer find wood gates an attractive option? Conversely, are there circumstances in which one would definitely want to stay away from installing wood gates?

A. Well, for using a wood gate versus a metal or wrought iron gate, you can certainly save money in the overall cost of the project. But a wood gate is limited in terms of how much distance it can span. Once a gate goes over 42 inches in width, the need for metal brackets and cross bracing becomes a very important factor. The weight of the wood will naturally cause the gate structure to sag whereas a metal gate is held together by welds and is more stable in terms of its joints. A wood gate will bounce and twist as it swings open, and a wood gate that is longer than 5 feet will need metal bracket plates to make the joints more rigid.

Because wood is a live material and susceptible to swelling from humidity levels, the fastener joints can, over time, work their way loose if the gate structure has a longer width than usual. If a driveway is a single car width and you can design a double gate opening at maybe 4 to 5 feet in width for the two sides, then a wood gate is a great option for the cost of a gate install. It could mean the difference between a $1000 (Canadian) to $2000 wood gate install versus a $4000 to $10,000 wrought iron gate install. If you were looking to span something greater than 10 feet in width, then you’d want to consider looking at a metal gate instead of a wood gate.

Browse Pictures of Fences.click here

Driveway Gates

Installation Considerations for Driveway Gates

Perhaps you’ve noticed some gorgeous gate designs in your travels and are considering a driveway gate for your own yard. Before deciding on a gate design, you’ll obviously have to take aesthetic considerations into account. What may be less obvious is the need to get down to the nuts and bolts of the matter. I’m talking about gate hardware. In an email interview on gate design I conducted with landscape designer, Paul Corsetti, we touched on both the aesthetic considerations behind gate design and the necessary gate hardware. A portion of that interview follows:

Q. Let’s discuss gate design a bit, Paul, especially how gate hardware can be dictated by practical constraints.

A. A 9 foot long gate has to be very strong to stand the bouncing and twisting it will endure in its lifetime. The gate design has to deal with its own weight and the possible weight of a human hanging on it, plus wind loading and so on. So the ornate wrought iron gate designs you sometimes see have to follow structural gate designs before they can look pretty. Cross bracing on a door that is tall and long is an important element of gate hardware, and so it is up to a good designer to work that into the gate design.

Q. Still on the subject of gate hardware, tell us about choices for gate hinges.

A. For gate hinges in iron or steel driveway gate designs, they are almost always custom fabricated to suit the gate and its span. Things like that get engineered into the overall gate design or architecture of the gate. For wood gates, usually you would run through a catalogue of gate hardware and pick what best suits the look of the gate design or the look of the home. One thing to look for is gate hinges that have ball bearings in them. That will make it easy to open and keep it working properly for years to come.

Q. For people not interested in hi-tech gate design (perhaps for a smaller fence gate, rather than a driveway gate), there’s another element of gate hardware to talk about: gate latches and gate locks. Are there any DOs and DON”Ts to discuss regarding this aspect of gate hardware?

A. In some cases with gate hardware, one should consider the size and weight of the driveway gate being installed. When a gate is repeatedly used and slammed shut, over time, the gate latches can fail if the gate door is made from a heavy material and they have small screws holding them in place or they are made from a flimsy material like cast aluminum. With enough repeated force, the aluminum gate latches can bend and warp to the point where the gate no longer latches shut. Some of the best types of gate latches and gate locks are similar in construction to that of a door handle being used on your home’s doors. It should be made of a heavy steel material and properly sealed against moisture to avoid corrosion of the locking mechanism.

The only problem with using higher quality gate latches and gate locks is that if the gate pillars are not installed properly and a shift due to frost or soft ground occurs, they are not easy to adjust because they are built into the gate frame like a door knob. Other types of gate latches held in place by screws on the exterior of the gate frame can be easily taken off, and new holes are made for the screws to relocate the gate latch so the gate would still close if it has shifted slightly.

Q. Tell us about gate post construction. What are the different types of gate post materials, and what are their pros and cons?

A. Gate post construction choices are important too. Some of the choices are:

• Stucco
• Natural stone
• Cultured stone
• Wood

All of the above can be used to achieve the look you desire in a gate design. It all depends on the budget. Natural stone is the nicest look you can give a gate post and will last forever but also costs the most to construct. Stucco and cultured stone are really just a cladding that would cover up a substructure of cement block for the pillar construction. Stucco gate posts can be painted different colors over the years to help keep them looking up to date. Cultured stone can be removed at a cost and a new style of stone can be placed on the gate pillar if you wish to change the look. Otherwise both materials will last for a great many years, provided they are cleaned of dirt and debris and sealed against moisture.

For gate post caps there are really only two choices; precast concrete or natural stone. Both materials are durable and will stand the test of time, although I am biased towards natural stone because it is a timeless look that ages and weathers nicely over the years.

Q. How closely does the architecture of the gate design have to match the style of the house? Could you give us some examples of great matches?

A. When considering gate design or the style of any outdoor structure, consistency between the style of the home and the architectural design of the structure is an important thing to have. When a designer dreams up a concept for the exterior structure, they look at scale, balance, proportion in relation to the house. A designer should also take some of the existing design elements from the home and incorporate them into the concept. Could be something as simple as a window trim feature or a design in the front door. The point is that this type of consistency will lead your eye to pick out patterns present on the property that are the same and tell the brain, “This belongs to the same home.”

Q. Any other gate design tips?

A. One of the things you see on occasion in a gate design is a beautiful header piece that sits over the driveway gate entry and gives the entrance a fancy look. When contemplating that as an addition to a gate design, consider the height of a delivery truck or moving van. If your yard is a large one with a long driveway, it can be a hassle to limit large vehicles from entering should you need them to be close to the home -- especially if it is a fire truck.

How To Install Wood Fence Posts

The following guidelines for replacing rotted or broken wood fence posts can be applied to any posts that support either slotted-rail or panel-type fencing.

Difficulty: Average

Time Required: One to two hours.

Here's How:

1. Remove the old wood fence post. Take the rails out of the rotted wood fence post if it is still standing and set them aside. Grab the old wood fence post and wiggle it — hard — in all directions until it loosens. Grasp the wood fence post firmly and pull it out of the ground. If it is broken, use a shovel to remove the part that remains in the ground. If the wood fence post is set into a concrete base, you can either dig up and remove the base or dig a new hole for the replacement wood fence post at a slight distance away from the original base.
2. Clear out or dig a new hole to install a new wood fence post. For the best results, you’ll want to use a narrow shovel known as a post-hole digger for this step. To use this two-handled shovel, shove it into the ground as hard as you can, then pry apart the two handles. While holding the handles wide open, lift and remove the tool from the soil. The metal scoops on the bottom may hold only a handful or two of dirt: This is normal and not a reflection on your strength or skill. Deposit the soil on the ground or a tarp and continue to dig out the hole.
3. Scrape as you dig. Use the prying end of a tamper tool to loosen soil at the bottom of the hole and to scrape the sides, creating a narrow, straight-sided opening. Dig and scrape repeatedly until you reach the necessary depth to insert the new wood fence post. Usually, wood fence posts are 20 inches deep. If the original hole was not that deep, dig to a depth at which the new support will be the same height as the other wood fence posts.
4. Put the new wood fence post in the hole. Remember to line up the slots that accommodate the rails for the fencing. To make it perfect, measure the height of the lowest rail slot on the nearest standing wood fence post with a tape measure, then adjust the new support to match that height. Replace some of the soil at the bottom of the hole to help settle the new wood fence post.
5. Hold the wood fence post plumb and level. Eyeball this or check it with a spirit level. While someone else is holding the wood fence post, shovel in soil and use the tamper end (the round part) of the tamper tool to firm up the soil around it as you go. If you don’t have a helper, you will need to stop shoveling periodically to right the new support so it is plumb (straight and erect) and level (its top is even with the next wood fence post in your fencing).
6. Backfill the hole. Fill, check plumb and tamp until the hole is filled firmly and the new support stands straight. Tamp the soil around the new wood fence post as securely as you can.
7. Put the rails back. Install the lower rail first, then the higher rails.
8. Optional: Secure the rails. Use a drill or power screwdriver to attach the wood fence post to the rails with a screw to prevent the rails from falling.
9. Clean and oil your tools. Clean off your tools and oil the working parts of the post-hole digger before you put them away.

What You Need:

• Work gloves and work boots
• Post-hole digger
• Narrow shovel (i.e. landscaping shovel, border spade)
• Tamping tool
• Replacement wood fence post
• Spirit level
• Tape measure
• Tarp
• Drill or power screwdriver and screws (optional)
• Good luck....:)
  

How To Build Wood Lattice Screens

Lattice screens hide many an imperfection in yards. You may have an unsightly HVAC unit lying on the ground next to your home, where you'd rather have plants. Or perhaps you'd like to fence in a garbage storage area or the underpinnings of a deck, so that they're not so visible. Wood lattice screens work well for these and other screening needs. Vines can later be trained up the wood lattice fencing to provide further screening.

Difficulty: Average

Time Required: 2 days

Here's How:

1. If the wood lattice screen is to be freestanding, install posts to support the lattice. In turn, the posts will be sunk into the ground and supported by concrete. In this project I'm referring to wooden posts and a wood lattice (not vinyl). If the lattice fencing is 4' x 8', you'll need to space the 2 postholes about 8' apart. Err on the side of spacing them a bit closer (you can always trim excess lattice).
2. Dig the 2 postholes. In cold climates you must dig 3' down, so that you'll get below the frost line. This will prevent heaving during freeze-and-thaw cycles. Even in warmer climates, consider digging to this depth to provide tall posts (7' or more) with more stability.
3. Apply 2" of crushed stone to the bottoms of the postholes for improved drainage for your lattice fence.
4. Here comes the tough part! You'll be setting 8' long 4x4 pressure-treated posts into the postholes now. However, the success of your project hinges on getting them properly aligned and plumbed, and on getting their tops to end up level with each other.
5. Begin by setting them in the holes and bracing them temporarily. Temporary braces (using scrap lumber) can be nailed to the posts to hold them up. Adjust the braces so as to get the posts roughly plumb. Place the wood lattice up against the posts.
6. If you're on level ground, use the top of the lattice fence now as a guide to determine how high you want your posts to be (but if you're working on a slope, see Tip #1 below). For instance, if you're using decorative post caps, you may wish to have the posts extend 1' above the lattice. Mark the places to cut with a pencil, then disassemble your temporary work, make the cuts, and reassemble.
7. Now that you've taken care of the height of the posts, turn your attention to alignment. Again adjust the braces so as to get the posts roughly plumb, and place the lattice fence temporarily up against the posts again, to see how well the posts line up with each other.
8. Since wood lattice is flexible, alignment does not have to be exact; but get it as close as possible, by adjusting the placement of the posts in their holes. If you measured carefully before digging the postholes, the adjustment should be minimal.
9. Satisfied with the way the posts align with one another, you can now tackle the chore of getting each post exactly plumb, all the way around, using a carpenter's level. When you've achieved this, tighten the braces, so as to hold the posts of the lattice fencing firmly in position.
10. You're finally ready for the concrete! When shopping for concrete, ask your home improvement store salesperson for the type that you just pour into the hole, dry, then soak with water.
11. Such "quick-setting" concrete doesn't have to be mixed before pouring, saving you the effort of first mixing concrete, then shoveling that heavy mix into the holes. With quick-setting concrete, you just empty the contents of the bag into the hole, then soak the concrete using a garden hose. For 3'-deep postholes you'll need about 5 bags per hole. Let the concrete cure overnight. End of Day 1.
12. Don't worry: Day 2 will be much easier! Prop the pressure-treated wood lattice up against the posts. Mark where you want to screw the lattice fencing to the posts. Still propping the wood lattice up in place, pre-drill through these marks, right into the posts. Now screw the lattice fenc onto the posts, using the holes that you pre-drilled. Trim any excess lattice hanging over the ends with a jigsaw.
13. Affix decorative post caps (if any) according to manufacturer's directions.
14. You can now plant any vine plants that you wish to train up the wood lattice screen. Flowering vines, particular, will dress up your lattice fence considerably. Just create your flower bed in front of the lattice screen, at its base.

Tips:

1. If you're working on a slope, it'll be more trouble to determine post heights. Brace the posts temporarily. Run a string with a string level from the top of the downhill post to the top of the uphill post, securing temporarily with tape. Then start bringing the uphill end down, checking to see at what point you reach level. At that point mark the uphill post, disassemble bracing, and make cut.
2. Don't install your lattice screen right smack up against an HVAC unit. Make sure there's plenty of "breathing room." This spacing will also ensure easy access should repair work need to be done on the HVAC unit.
3. You have some options with pressure-treated wood, in terms of a finish. The maintenance-free option is to let it weather to a natural finish. If "natural" isn't your thing, you could stain it or paint it. You may find it easier to do the initial staining or painting prior to installation. Of course, when it comes time to re-stain or re-paint, you won't have this option.

What You Need:

• tape measure
• carpenter's level
• string level
• posthole digger or shovel
• circular saw, jigsaw
• drill, screws
• hammer, nails
• quick-setting concrete
• two 4x4 treated posts
• 4x8 treated wood lattice

FAQ on Fence Designs

Please type your QUESTION/S here

Fence Design, Fence Construction, Fencing Materials

Types of Wood Fences

The present article on wood fences serves as an introduction to my photo gallery of fence pictures, in which I discuss examples not only of wood fences but also of alternatives to wood fences (e.g., vinyl and metal fencing).

Types of Wood Fences: How Does One Choose?

When it's time to select fencing for your property, you may be overwhelmed by how many types of wood fences and other options there are from which to choose. But the decision largely comes down to two considerations:

1. Form (i.e., stylistic considerations)
2. Function (i.e., what practical purpose the fencing will serve)

Fortunately, sometimes there is a happy marriage between form and function. But such is not always the case. For instance, chain-link fencing and other metal products often make for superior security fences. Therefore, if the intended function of your fencing is security, you may have to choose between form and function: the style of your house may cry out for a wood fence, but security concerns may convince you to go with the metal.

Types of Wood Fences: When the Focus Is on Form

In choosing between types of wood fences, consider their potential for compatibility both with your house style and with your landscape-design style. For instance:

• Split-rail wood fences and other wood fence designs marked by rough and rugged posts and rails have long been a favorite with:
  • Ranch-style houses
  • Landscape designs with a Southwestern theme (U.S.)
• Picket-style fencing seems a natural fit for:
  • Cottage-style homes
  • Landscape designs inspired by English cottage gardens

Types of Wood Fences: When the Focus Is on Function

There are special circumstances in which wood fences, despite their beauty, may not be your best choice for fencing. Sometimes, for example, a homeowner in the market for fencing needs to keep animals in the yard -- dogs, for instance. In which case, electric dog fences may be the answer. There are also times when the issue is keeping animals out of the yard -- deer, for instance. Various types of deer fencing serve this function.

Security is another practical function many homeowners demand from fencing, a function for which, as mentioned above, metal fencing is generally considered superior to wood fences.

But wood fences are an excellent choice for privacy fencing, whether it be in terms of noise barrieror, more commonly, visual barriers. Wood fences (along with their vinyl copy-cats) provide some of the most attractive fencing options available when your chief concern is creating a backyard sanctuary.

The stockade style offers an example of a wood fence design that can afford a solid visual barrier between your yard and your neighbor's, resulting in almost total privacy. While masonry work such as brick can do the same, it costs significantly more than does a wood fence.

Others prefer a compromise on privacy, choosing wood fences with a certain amount of airiness to them, to avoid fencing out the outer world altogether. Tall picket fencing, for example, can afford partial privacy, as can lattice fencing.

A popular alternative to these privacy fencing options is a hybrid wood fence design: i.e., a solid barrier for the bottom three-quarters of the fencing, with lattice on top to inject an element of airiness and decoration.

As noted above, one factor in choosing between the different types of wood fences is their potential for compatibility with one's landscape design. Solid wood fences can provide compelling backdrops for plantings, while the airier wood fence designs (e.g., split-rail and picket-style wood fences) can serve either as foregrounds or backgrounds for planting beds. Examples of how wood fences (as well as fencing composed of other materials) can work in harmony with other landscaping elements to create interest in a landscape design can be found in my photo gallery of fence pictures.

Fences, Driveways, Walkways: Design, Materials, Building, Landscaping

Information on building fences and walkways, and on driveway design and materials. Includes fence designs for different functions, popular fencing materials, professional installation versus DIY fence design, aesthetic considerations and common mistakes in building fences. Tips on driveway landscaping and on snow-removal options.

Deck Railings Part 4

Interview with Lawrence Winterburn, expert on building deck railings, continued from Part 3. On this page, Lawrence concludes the interview by providing instructions for do-it-yourselfers on how to build deck railings.

Q: This final question is meant to help the do-it-yourselfers out there. Let's say I've been building a deck for myself, and I've made it as far as finishing the decking. All that's left for me to do is building deck railings. Can you give me a brief step-by-step tutorial on how to build deck railings?

A: The simplest instructions for the do-it-yourselfer would be for installing "typical builder deck railings," as shown in this deck railing pictures:

Step 1.The steps and deck frame should be built, in place and clad with decking -- trim the decking off flush to the rim joist (outer frame member that encircles the deck).

Step 2.Cut pieces of 2x6 (upper deck railings), so that when stood up around the outside of the deck, they mimic the shape of the outer frame member. Each piece of wood has an upward curvature when on edge -- this is known as "crown." Make sure the pieces are placed crown up for better strength and visual appeal. Tack them in place temporarily with small screws or finishing nails. Keep in mind that these will be removed later when this becomes the upper part of the deck railing. Now, fasten them to each other using 3 suitable 3" deck screws or spiral ACQ nails per connection. If you need or desire to install 4x4 posts at the entrance or base of steps, this is the time to do it. The posts at the base of the steps should be at least 3' deep and keep the concrete in the bottom half of the hole. Back-fill with gravel for durability. When the time comes, you will fasten the deck railings to these posts -- but allow the concrete to set a couple of days first.

Step 3.Using a framing square, mark out the baluster positions by drawing a line every 5". Make a mark on the side of the line (normally a line or x), to indicate which side the baluster will be mounted.

Step 4.Fasten the 4 balusters at each corner of the upper deck railing with 2 ½" deck screws (for pressure-treated, use ACQ rated fasteners only; for cedar use hot-dipped galvanized fasteners).

Step 5.You will likely need a friend or two to help with the next step. You will need to have them help you lift these upper deck railings into place while you fasten a screw through the bottoms to elevate the upper deck railing into place, 42" above the deck (blocks cut to size will help hold the deck rail up).

Step 6.As you fill in the other balusters confirm vertical with a level. You will notice the more balusters are in place, the stronger the deck railing will get. When the balusters are all on, fasten to the posts by piloting a diagonal hole and using a 3" deck screw.

Think about adding a 2x6 on top and a row or two of 2x2s or 1x1s below the cap to add a functional drink rail -- and a horizontal lattice look.

About Our Expert on Deck Railings:

A career carpenter, writer and designer, Lawrence Winterburn is becoming well known in the landscape architecture field as an innovator of details and formidable designer.

Deck Railings Part 3

Interview with Lawrence Winterburn, expert on deck railings, continued from Part 2. On this page, Lawrence turns to the issue of building codes for deck railings.

Q: What specifications for deck railings are dictated by the local residential building codes you have encountered in your projects?

A: Many building departments are enforcing very strict specifications when it comes to deck railings -- and local home inspectors are normally well-versed in the local specifications. When they are faced with interpretive examination as to whether a certain deck railing is climbable or not, they typically defer to a local professional engineer for a stamped drawing. We are starting to have our own stamp-worthy details for all our locations.

Most specify that the old colonial spindles are illegal -- at the smallest turning they are only ¾" thick and don't meet strength standards for deck railings. They try to offer standard details from the national building code, but whenever something strange happens they change the rules to address the need. It sure would be nice for all the small building departments to communicate with a governing board to create an online database of specifications and solutions. I think we are a few years away from that. In short, drop by your local building department and ask for any building codes relating to deck railings that they have locally. You may be surprised to find that decks are hands-off in your local area with no specified restrictions.

Q: Also, do local residential building codes sometimes dictate the height of deck railings?

A: I've seen height specifications for deck railings range between 32" and 48". They need to not be climbable; i.e., you can't get a foothold to climb over. They need to meet certain strength ratings but, typically, if a 300-lb man were to fall against the deck railing, it should not move more than 1".

Q: And finally, do local residential building codes also determine the spacing between the balusters (rungs) of deck railings?

A: Space between balusters in most areas is max 3.5" and is measured with a 3 ½" ball.

Q: On a related subject, do residential building codes present different specifications for the deck railings around pool decking?

A: Absolutely -- entirely different specifications for pool deck railings, and it is different in every area. Some of these locally created bylaws are terribly worded and are open to interpretation by poorly trained clerks. You may be surprised to find that there is no appeal process in place -- the clerks rule pool fences. You are better off to submit drawings for approval ahead of time when you plan on doing something different than the norm.

Q: Residential building codes are one thing but, in your projects, have you ever encountered regulations pertaining to deck railings imposed by homeowners' associations.

A: We've seen, "No vinyl fencing," "No unfinished wood," "No lattice" for deck railings, even "No building whatsoever without approval by the association." There are historic districts in most cities and a committee rules these. I think that's great for architecture. It keeps the designers honest, and these areas are far better looking than the norm, because the architects are challenged to do their best work. Architecture is always better when scrutinized.

Deck Railings Part 2

Interview with Lawrence Winterburn(founder of garden structure.com), expert on deck railing designs, continued from Part 1 On this page, I ask Lawrence for further deck railing design ideas, including how to match deck railing designs with the style of your home.

Q: For each of the materials for deck railings you just listed, can you give us an idea of the different deck railing designs available?

A: Most of the pre-fab deck railings are colonial or modern in style (Minimalist -- stripped down and void of real style). Some resemble Arts and Crafts loosely, but for the most part they don't stray from the norm for fear of damaging profits.

Metal deck railings are often similarly simple and standard looking -- again to keep prices tight and not to limit the market.

Custom metal and wood deck railings are unlimited in scope and style. When you have a singular home, this is your likely track to getting something to work with your home. This is the realm of the exterior designer.

Q: Can you give examples of how, for this or that particular house style, certain deck railing designs might provide a better complement than others?

A: Metal deck railings often blend well with masonry homes. When you don't want to impose on the view, metal or glass deck railings will be less obstructive. Obviously a natural cedar or wood-trimmed house should have semi-transparent finished wood deck railings. A vinyl-clad house should have solid-color stained deck railings or solid-color vinyl deck railings. There are as many different styles of deck railings as there are homes.

Q: Likewise, for this or that particular landscape design style, can you give examples of how certain deck railing designs might be more complementary than others?

A: Normally when you design woodwork in a yard it resembles the architecture of the home closely, since it is structure. Bastardization should be avoided unless it is a theme garden.

Q: As someone with his finger on the pulse of the decking industry, what materials and/or deck railing designs seem to be gaining most in popularity? Composite wood, for instance?

A: Pre-finished wood / exotic wood deck railings, particularly those with curves, are the pinnacle. Apparently there is a new composite material for deck railings that is ½ the weight and 4x as strong -- it is not available yet, but expect to see it in the next couple of years. Styles and looks are always changing, but in the end it is quality that shows after a few years of wear. What things look like after 5 years in the market have a lot to do with whether it sells well or not in the future.

Composites have made headway -- class action suits have been settled. And some products have improved. But on the whole, the bar is set to a mediocre level when it comes to composites. Read the warranty and go see the product after it's been installed 3 years -- wiggle it, prod it, poke it and type in the product name + class action suit in Google to check their history.

Q: What materials and/or deck railing designs hold up best to the elements with little or no maintenance?

A: The composite companies promise the world -- but sometimes they don't quite live up to expectations. Did you know that when they test the composites for color durability that it is the equivalent of 6 months in real life? Some are good, some are bad; but I wouldn't dare mention one being either, specifically, for fear of being sued.

Similarly, a powder-coated aluminum deck railing's paint finish will discolor over time and should be expected to last a few years before a re-coat is necessary. However, if it is powder-coated white metal, it may break when you install it and drilled parts may rot within a couple of years. Many of these deck railings look just like aluminum.

Wood deck railings? If they are made of poplar, they may last 9 months. Pine deck railings, 5 or 10 years. Heart red cedar (old growth) or old growth redwood, or Ipe or mahogany deck railings may last between 20 and 40 years without stain.

It pays to do a bit of research on what type of materials for deck railings work best -- and check references. Part of the function of a contractor is advising the homeowner of what materials will work best. Inexperienced carpenters can make errors that could cost you thousands.

Deck Railings

Deck railings provide the finishing touches for your new decking. Safety is the practical consideration behind the installation of deck railings. However, in selecting deck railings, keep maintenance in mind. And there is also an aesthetic component: choosing wisely from among the various deck railing styles is critical to the project from a design perspective.

"Deck railings" here refers to the whole unit placed at the edge of your decking to prevent the unwary from falling off: posts, panels (i.e., "balusters," "rungs") and handrails.

I recently conducted an email-interview on deck railings with an expert in the field, Lawrence Winterburn. The results of the interview are contained in the following Q&A:

Q: What choices do I have for materials when installing deck railings?

A: Here are some of the choices for deck railings:

1. Typical Builder Deck Railings:

These are the beveled 2x2 wood pickets fastened to a 2x6 on edge at the top and fastened to the rim joist of the deck (outer band of wood in the deck frame).

2. Custom Wood Deck Railings:

Any shape and size you can imagine can be done from wood. It takes a pro, and sometimes an engineer's stamp of approval, but there are unlimited options for custom styles, an example of which is shown in this deck railing picture.

3. Pre-Fabricated Vinyl Extrusions With Metal Sleeve Inserts (for Strength):

Aluminum inserts in wood deck railings are getting more popular as a sort of DIY metal deck railing without needing to weld. Simply drill your holes in two 2x4's on the vertical and press them together. Add a cap handrail and it's done.

Aluminum pre-fab deck railings are available at most lumberyards. These screw- together extrusions often utilize Plexiglas (which yellows, but you can cut to size) or tempered glass inserts which either have to be used as is or made custom for the project in advance. The glass inserts offer safety without sacrificing the view, as shown in this deck railing picture. We had one client that wanted them so that they would have a clear view of the pool so that they could see if their handicapped daughter was ok while in the pool.

Metal deck railings can range from the old basic welded metal (painted) deck railings, to architectural aluminum-powder coated finish. You want to watch using metal with red cedar -- the tannins react with the moist iron to produce black stains -- but aluminum works perfectly in contact with red cedar.

4. Composite Deck Railings:

There are a few composite choices, most have metal reinforcement -- nearly all look like wood. Just my opinion -- they shouldn't. They could do so many wonderful and different things with composite -- alas, they don't.

How to Build Outdoor Wooden Decks part 5

Use cinder blocks at this point to stand in temporarily for the wooden posts. That way, you can play around with the height and make sure you achieve the desired level (for the components at this end of the deck, see picture on right). But how do you check the level across such long distances? The answer is to run a long, straight board from the header to cinder blocks at the other end, and place your carpenter’s level upon this board. Once you’ve found the height that will give you the slope you need, you can just take note of the distance covered from the bottom of the cinder blocks to the top of the cinder blocks.

And how do you check the level in the other dimension – left to right? If you’ve been careful so far in installing your header board and side joists, you’ll now reap the rewards for your attention to detail. The side joists are your guides for keeping everything level left to right.

Using the measurements obtained from playing with the cinder blocks, you can determine the length the posts need to be.

But the posts alone do not span the distance from the tops of the piers to the bottom of the joists. On this end of the deck we’ll be using another piece of wood that will rest upon the posts, called a “girder.” The girder roughly corresponds to the header board at the other end, in the sense that it will serve as the support for the joists. But there’s an important difference. Joists will “hang” from the header board using joist hangers (which keeps them on the same level as the header board), but on the opposite end, joists will rest on top of the girder. The girder will be the length of the header board plus 3”. Deck builders often unite 2 boards to form a nice thick girder; for instance, two 2x10s to form, in essence, a 4x10.

Therefore it is the height of the joist plus the height of the girder plus the height of the post that the temporary cinder blocks spanned vertically. Or to put it another way: take the distance covered by the cinder blocks from top to bottom, subtract the height of the joist and the height of the girder from it, and you’ll have the height needed for the posts (see picture at upper right). Cut posts accordingly.

With both the posts and the girder cut to the right lengths, assemble them to form a unit, using post caps. Transfer this unit onto the concrete piers, using the post bases previously installed in the concrete to fasten the posts to the piers. Once the post-and-girder unit is secured to the piers, the top of the girder should meet the bottoms of the two outermost joists. If so, we’ve successfully completed the hard part of this project!

Although it’s still possible to screw something up later in the project, we’d probably be able to rectify it easily enough. It is in this sense that I referred on Part 1 to the steps presented in this article as the “essential” steps. If these steps are botched, you’ll probably have to start over from square one. But if you get through them successfully, the rest isn’t too bad.

That’s why I’ve focused on the project’s initial steps. Once completed, you’ll simply install the other joists. You’ll use fasteners called “seismic ties” to attach the joists to the girders. Let the joists at this end stick out beyond the girder willy-nilly, until they’re all in place. Then cut their ends off all at once, at some predetermined distance from the piers. These ends can be capped by a face board, if you prefer that look.

Your final major step is cutting the decking boards themselves and screwing them to the tops of the joists. Stagger the decking so that the seams don’t all line up; the deck will not only be more stable structurally this way, but will also look better. If your deck will be high off the ground, building codes dictate adding a railing. By the way, a popular alternative now to wood decking is composite decking (see picture on prior page). However, composite materials still aren't as strong as good old wood, so composite decking must be supported by wooden elements.

But believe me: After all we’ve been through up to this point, the deck railings will be a piece of cake.....:)

How to Build Outdoor Wooden Decks part 4

With the header board in place (as discussed on Part 3), support has now been provided for the deck at the house-end. At the opposite end, support will derive from a pier of some sort, sunk into the ground. Deck builders use a variety of techniques to accomplish this, but I will present one that I believe to be easiest for do-it-yourself deck building.

These deck piers do not have to be located at the very edge of the deck. In fact, many deck builders prefer the look of having the piers hidden from view, a few feet back from the edge. Likewise for the two sides. The number of piers and pier spacing is determined by local residential building codes.

Before digging, it will be helpful to nail the two outermost joists (extreme left and extreme right, as you face the house) to the header board. At the opposite end, use temporary braces to prop them up. These joists can serve as a reference point when working on the pier holes. More importantly, make sure that these 2 joists are level with each other (at both ends). And each joist should be set to slope 1/8 inch per foot away from the house (for drainage). Don’t be afraid to fuss over this now, even if it takes quite a bit of time to get it just right. You’ll spare yourself a plethora of problems later. You'll be calculating the height of your ground supports based on the level of these joists.

Nor are these your only concerns. For you really want your rectangle to start taking shape as soon as possible, so that you can begin squaring up your angles. For the joists must form right angles with the header board; use a carpenter’s square to make sure you begin building your rectangular frame at perfect right angles. Remembering a little high school geometry here certainly doesn’t hurt your chances. You can make use of the fact that, in a right triangle with a base of 3’, the side perpendicular to the base will be 4’, and the diagonal side 5’. If your angle is off, now is the time to adjust it – not after everything is secured!

After installing these outermost joists, run a tape measure down from the header along each joist, stopping at the distance where you’ve determined the piers should be. Mark it. Now run a string tightly between these two marks, from joist to joist, spanning the whole width of the deck. This string will be your guide as to where to locate the piers. Run a plumb bob down from this string to the ground, and mark that spot. You are now ready to begin digging.

Pier holes should extend below the frost line to avoid heaving during freeze and thaw cycles. Dig each hole the same depth, again using the plumb bob as a guide. At the bottom apply a layer of crushed stone. Mix concrete and build a small form for a square concrete footing, according to local residential building codes. Let the concrete cure. You are now ready to do more concrete work, this time for the pier itself.

Hardware stores carry a waxed cardboard tube used as a circular concrete form. Just set this form on the cured footing, plumb it, and mix and pour more concrete. Etching marks on the forms to serve as guides, make each pier the same height. Reinforce the concrete with rebar. You’ll want the top of your concrete piers to be about 2’ above ground level. Before the concrete cures, place a post base onto the top of each pier. These post bases will allow you to unite the wooden posts you’re using with the concrete piers. Allow the concrete to cure again.

One of the biggest challenges in deck building will be encountered at this point in the project: making the house-end and the opposite end of the deck the same height. More than at any other step, this is the place to apply the do-it-yourself carpenter’s golden rule: play around with it first as much as possible to get the right alignment, before cutting anything or securing anything. Otherwise, you only have one chance to get it right – in which case, I don’t like my chances!

How to Build Outdoor Wooden Decks part 3

On Part 2 I jumped the gun a bit in breaking out the tape measure and shovel. There's still a preliminary concern to consider before diving into the actual building of backyard decks. Consider that although the backyard deck doesn’t have to be an extension of the house, the majority of decks do abut against a house wall. But building such a deck can present a challenge. On this page I discuss an alternative that is easier -- freestanding decks.

Decks that rest smack up against a house usually derive structural support on that end by being attached to the house with bolts (or lag screws). But you can’t just blindly shove the bolt anywhere. Since you’re trying to achieve structural support, the wood in that area needs to be part of something substantial, something that is part of the underlying framework of the house: either the wall studs or floor joists. But you and your deck need to gain access to this solid wood – meaning you have to remove the siding of your house in that area (i.e., if your house is covered with clapboard, vinyl siding, aluminum siding, or beveled wood).

For the non-carpenter, removing your house’s siding is a pretty scary proposition. Let’s face it: Most of us take a “Leave well enough alone!” attitude towards our houses. We don’t want to screw up anything….

The good news is that there’s an alternative method, while still building the deck adjacent to your house: namely, the freestanding deck. Freestanding decks are a bit more work, because the house-end of the freestanding deck will have to rest on piers, in lieu of being connected to the house. That means extra digging for you, and additional concrete work. But for the sake of your peace of mind, this alternative may be worth the extra work.

But now that you know about freestanding decks, I’ll discuss the other method as well -– that of attaching the deck directly to the house for support -- just in case you’re feeling brave.

Carefully mark out where the header board should be attached to your house. The level at which the top of the header board rests should be the same as the level of your joists, atop which you will be attaching your decking. It is critical to ensure that the header is not only at the proper height, but also that it is level. The success of the whole project depends on this. The length of the header board equals the total length of the deck, minus 3”. Why minus 3”? Because the outermost joist on the left of the deck, as well as that on the right (as you face the house), should overlap the header board and be nailed to it. The joists will be, let’s say, 2 x 8s. As mentioned on the previous page, that means they’re actually 1 1/2” thick. Then multiply by 2.

Remove the siding where the header board must go. Tuck flashing up under the piece of siding that remains above this area. Roll the flashing down the side of the house, low enough that it will extend to a level below the bottom of your header board (the flashing will rest between the wall and the header board). Form a “lip” at the bottom, so that the water will be channeled away from the house. On the flashing, make marks where the bolts or lag screws must penetrate. Pre-drill the holes and caulk them.

Make corresponding marks on the header board, and make sure everything lines up. Now drill holes in the header board for the bolts or lag screws, and caulk the holes to further seal off your work from moisture problems. A slight space must also be left between the header and the wall, to allow rain to run freely down between the wall and the back of the header, averting rot. If you slide washers onto the lag screws or bolts in the back before securing the header, you’ll create the spacing you need. Tighten the bolts or lag screws.

How to Build Outdoor Wooden Decks part 2

Building Codes Affect Deck Design

I've listed tools helpful for the project, but to build an outdoor wooden deck, obviously the primary supply needed will be the wood. It would be nice if I could provide the dimensions for your lumber, but there are really too many variables involved to give precise dimensions. Lumber dimensions would depend, for example, on the type of wood that you choose: pressure-treated, cedar, etc. The size of the deck is another variable.

Perhaps even more frustrating is the fact that, when all is said and done, the choice about lumber dimensions is probably not yours to make, anyhow. Zoning laws and residential building codes will have a lot to say about what you can and cannot do in your deck project.

Before you even begin with your deck design (let alone deck construction), check into local zoning ordinances. Depending on where you live, you may be surprised to learn just how restrictive zoning can be.

You should talk with your local building inspector, too, so as to comply with building codes in your area. Usually you’ll need to file for a building permit. Don’t look at your chat with the building inspector as all bad, though. For here’s another chance to pose some intelligent questions about deck building and get some free answers from someone with a wealth of information on the subject.

Local building codes may tell you specifically what lumber dimensions you need. Because they are local, there’s no point in speculating about them here. But, for the purposes of this article, I will assume that the posts you’ll be using as underpinnings for the deck are either 4x4s or 6x6s. I’ll assume the rest of the lumber will be 2 x something (at least 2x6, and possibly as high as 2x12). Note, however, that a 2x10, for instance, is not really 2” by 10” (that’s just a naming convention). It’s really 1.5" x 9.5".

Getting Started With the Deck Construction: Preparing the Site

Upon finishing your deck design plans and assembling the necessary tools and supplies, step one of construction will begin: preparing the site. This step is necessary if you’ll be building the deck over an area that is currently grass-covered.

Once you know how large a rectangle you want the finished deck to occupy, measure out this area and make marks on the ground to indicate where the deck will lie. To ensure that your rectangle is true, measure diagonally from corner to corner, both ways (i.e., upper left to lower right, and upper right to lower left). You want these measurements to be equal.

Using a shovel, remove any grass or weeds from this measured area, to form your working space. Later, before closing off this working space with decking, apply mulch over this space to suppress weeds. But for now, your main concern is to furnish yourself with as level a working space as possible. This will be important later in the project, when you dig holes for concrete piers – which need to end up at the same height! You’ll be more likely to achieve this if you start off on level ground.

The Essential Steps in Deck Design and Construction

How to Build Outdoor Wooden Decks part 1

So you've become interested in deck construction, but you're not clear on how to build a deck? You’ve seen hundreds of examples of deck design on other people’s landscapes, and you like the idea that building a deck will mean having an attractive “outdoor living space” at your disposal. Problem is, you don’t know where to begin, you say? Your do-it-yourself carpentry skills are basic at best, and the prospect of deck design and construction from scratch is rather daunting?

Well, you’ve come to the right place. This article is meant to serve as a springboard for those interested in building decks, who seek information geared for the beginner. It is beyond the scope of this article to provide an exhaustive treatise on all aspects of constructing decks. But the article should provide novices with enough information to get them started. I’ll focus on the essential steps in deck building, with emphasis on the initial steps that get the project off on a sound footing. Space does not permit treatment of the finishing touches, such as railings and deck sealers. My goal is simply to furnish you with a solid foundation – both literally and figuratively.

Once beginners get started on a project as complex as this one, one of their most obvious needs will be to ask questions. An opportunity to do so will arise when they shop for lumber and other supplies for the deck project at a hardware store. The hardware store can be a great source of free information. But to ask intelligent questions, you need some knowledge of the subject already, including knowledge of the terminology used to discuss the various aspects of it. You also need an introduction to some basic problem solving in deck construction. For instance, on Page 3 we discuss the freestanding deck as an alternative to the type that gets secured directly to a house. Why? Because although you can still place a freestanding deck adjacent to a house, a freestanding deck obviates a problem for the non-carpenter: namely, it avoids having to remove siding from your house (a scary thought for most of us).

You need to be made aware of such challenges that await you in your initial foray into deck construction. Once you become aware of the problems – and mull over some suggestions as to how to solve them – you’ll be brimming with astute questions when you walk into the hardware store. Speaking of the hardware store, some of the supplies you’ll need to build a deck are likely to include the following:

• Flashing
• Caulking compound
• Pre-mixed concrete
• Gravel or crushed stone
• Cinder blocks
• Post caps
• Post bases
• Seismic ties
• Joist hangers
• Cardboard tube concrete forms
• Rebar
• If you must use nails, use stainless steel or HDG nails (either ring-shank nails or spiral-groove, for better holding power). But it is preferable to use deck screws.
• Joist hanger nails
• HDG bolts or lag screws, and washers

The following are some of the tools you may need for this deck project:

• Shovel
• Carpenter’s level
• Carpenter’s square
• Plumb bob
• Wheelbarrow (for mixing concrete)
• Caulking gun
• Drill
• Wrench (to tighten lag screws)
• Hammer
• Circular saw
• Tape measure
• Safety eyeware
• Scrap lumber for bracing

Do you think buying a Franchise is the best way to start a Small Business ?????

However, easy expansion is not a given in the franchise industry, which is present in more than 40 different sectors, from florists to automotive services to education. Of the Canadian Franchise Association's 350 members, board member Ken LeBlanc says that most have not greatly expanded.

"The lion's share of franchises has under 10 franchise units," says LeBlanc. "Those first 10 are easy to sell, quite honestly. You have a great idea, a great concept. But unless those 10 are successful, you will never sell No. 11. If you don't have great people working your business and being successful, it's very difficult to sell those additional units."

At M & M, Wissent says that marketing and promotion may drive the business, but in-store execution is a requirement to keep the customers coming back. He also advises that other franchisors listen to their franchisees if they want to succeed.

"It is time to expand when you know that you have something replicable and profitable, and you have the funds and systems in place that are necessary for growth."