Driveway Gates

Installation Considerations for Driveway Gates

Perhaps you’ve noticed some gorgeous gate designs in your travels and are considering a driveway gate for your own yard. Before deciding on a gate design, you’ll obviously have to take aesthetic considerations into account. What may be less obvious is the need to get down to the nuts and bolts of the matter. I’m talking about gate hardware. In an email interview on gate design I conducted with landscape designer, Paul Corsetti, we touched on both the aesthetic considerations behind gate design and the necessary gate hardware. A portion of that interview follows:

Q. Let’s discuss gate design a bit, Paul, especially how gate hardware can be dictated by practical constraints.

A. A 9 foot long gate has to be very strong to stand the bouncing and twisting it will endure in its lifetime. The gate design has to deal with its own weight and the possible weight of a human hanging on it, plus wind loading and so on. So the ornate wrought iron gate designs you sometimes see have to follow structural gate designs before they can look pretty. Cross bracing on a door that is tall and long is an important element of gate hardware, and so it is up to a good designer to work that into the gate design.

Q. Still on the subject of gate hardware, tell us about choices for gate hinges.

A. For gate hinges in iron or steel driveway gate designs, they are almost always custom fabricated to suit the gate and its span. Things like that get engineered into the overall gate design or architecture of the gate. For wood gates, usually you would run through a catalogue of gate hardware and pick what best suits the look of the gate design or the look of the home. One thing to look for is gate hinges that have ball bearings in them. That will make it easy to open and keep it working properly for years to come.

Q. For people not interested in hi-tech gate design (perhaps for a smaller fence gate, rather than a driveway gate), there’s another element of gate hardware to talk about: gate latches and gate locks. Are there any DOs and DON”Ts to discuss regarding this aspect of gate hardware?

A. In some cases with gate hardware, one should consider the size and weight of the driveway gate being installed. When a gate is repeatedly used and slammed shut, over time, the gate latches can fail if the gate door is made from a heavy material and they have small screws holding them in place or they are made from a flimsy material like cast aluminum. With enough repeated force, the aluminum gate latches can bend and warp to the point where the gate no longer latches shut. Some of the best types of gate latches and gate locks are similar in construction to that of a door handle being used on your home’s doors. It should be made of a heavy steel material and properly sealed against moisture to avoid corrosion of the locking mechanism.

The only problem with using higher quality gate latches and gate locks is that if the gate pillars are not installed properly and a shift due to frost or soft ground occurs, they are not easy to adjust because they are built into the gate frame like a door knob. Other types of gate latches held in place by screws on the exterior of the gate frame can be easily taken off, and new holes are made for the screws to relocate the gate latch so the gate would still close if it has shifted slightly.

Q. Tell us about gate post construction. What are the different types of gate post materials, and what are their pros and cons?

A. Gate post construction choices are important too. Some of the choices are:

• Stucco
• Natural stone
• Cultured stone
• Wood

All of the above can be used to achieve the look you desire in a gate design. It all depends on the budget. Natural stone is the nicest look you can give a gate post and will last forever but also costs the most to construct. Stucco and cultured stone are really just a cladding that would cover up a substructure of cement block for the pillar construction. Stucco gate posts can be painted different colors over the years to help keep them looking up to date. Cultured stone can be removed at a cost and a new style of stone can be placed on the gate pillar if you wish to change the look. Otherwise both materials will last for a great many years, provided they are cleaned of dirt and debris and sealed against moisture.

For gate post caps there are really only two choices; precast concrete or natural stone. Both materials are durable and will stand the test of time, although I am biased towards natural stone because it is a timeless look that ages and weathers nicely over the years.

Q. How closely does the architecture of the gate design have to match the style of the house? Could you give us some examples of great matches?

A. When considering gate design or the style of any outdoor structure, consistency between the style of the home and the architectural design of the structure is an important thing to have. When a designer dreams up a concept for the exterior structure, they look at scale, balance, proportion in relation to the house. A designer should also take some of the existing design elements from the home and incorporate them into the concept. Could be something as simple as a window trim feature or a design in the front door. The point is that this type of consistency will lead your eye to pick out patterns present on the property that are the same and tell the brain, “This belongs to the same home.”

Q. Any other gate design tips?

A. One of the things you see on occasion in a gate design is a beautiful header piece that sits over the driveway gate entry and gives the entrance a fancy look. When contemplating that as an addition to a gate design, consider the height of a delivery truck or moving van. If your yard is a large one with a long driveway, it can be a hassle to limit large vehicles from entering should you need them to be close to the home -- especially if it is a fire truck.

How To Install Wood Fence Posts

The following guidelines for replacing rotted or broken wood fence posts can be applied to any posts that support either slotted-rail or panel-type fencing.

Difficulty: Average

Time Required: One to two hours.

Here's How:

1. Remove the old wood fence post. Take the rails out of the rotted wood fence post if it is still standing and set them aside. Grab the old wood fence post and wiggle it — hard — in all directions until it loosens. Grasp the wood fence post firmly and pull it out of the ground. If it is broken, use a shovel to remove the part that remains in the ground. If the wood fence post is set into a concrete base, you can either dig up and remove the base or dig a new hole for the replacement wood fence post at a slight distance away from the original base.
2. Clear out or dig a new hole to install a new wood fence post. For the best results, you’ll want to use a narrow shovel known as a post-hole digger for this step. To use this two-handled shovel, shove it into the ground as hard as you can, then pry apart the two handles. While holding the handles wide open, lift and remove the tool from the soil. The metal scoops on the bottom may hold only a handful or two of dirt: This is normal and not a reflection on your strength or skill. Deposit the soil on the ground or a tarp and continue to dig out the hole.
3. Scrape as you dig. Use the prying end of a tamper tool to loosen soil at the bottom of the hole and to scrape the sides, creating a narrow, straight-sided opening. Dig and scrape repeatedly until you reach the necessary depth to insert the new wood fence post. Usually, wood fence posts are 20 inches deep. If the original hole was not that deep, dig to a depth at which the new support will be the same height as the other wood fence posts.
4. Put the new wood fence post in the hole. Remember to line up the slots that accommodate the rails for the fencing. To make it perfect, measure the height of the lowest rail slot on the nearest standing wood fence post with a tape measure, then adjust the new support to match that height. Replace some of the soil at the bottom of the hole to help settle the new wood fence post.
5. Hold the wood fence post plumb and level. Eyeball this or check it with a spirit level. While someone else is holding the wood fence post, shovel in soil and use the tamper end (the round part) of the tamper tool to firm up the soil around it as you go. If you don’t have a helper, you will need to stop shoveling periodically to right the new support so it is plumb (straight and erect) and level (its top is even with the next wood fence post in your fencing).
6. Backfill the hole. Fill, check plumb and tamp until the hole is filled firmly and the new support stands straight. Tamp the soil around the new wood fence post as securely as you can.
7. Put the rails back. Install the lower rail first, then the higher rails.
8. Optional: Secure the rails. Use a drill or power screwdriver to attach the wood fence post to the rails with a screw to prevent the rails from falling.
9. Clean and oil your tools. Clean off your tools and oil the working parts of the post-hole digger before you put them away.

What You Need:

• Work gloves and work boots
• Post-hole digger
• Narrow shovel (i.e. landscaping shovel, border spade)
• Tamping tool
• Replacement wood fence post
• Spirit level
• Tape measure
• Tarp
• Drill or power screwdriver and screws (optional)
• Good luck....:)
  

How To Build Wood Lattice Screens

Lattice screens hide many an imperfection in yards. You may have an unsightly HVAC unit lying on the ground next to your home, where you'd rather have plants. Or perhaps you'd like to fence in a garbage storage area or the underpinnings of a deck, so that they're not so visible. Wood lattice screens work well for these and other screening needs. Vines can later be trained up the wood lattice fencing to provide further screening.

Difficulty: Average

Time Required: 2 days

Here's How:

1. If the wood lattice screen is to be freestanding, install posts to support the lattice. In turn, the posts will be sunk into the ground and supported by concrete. In this project I'm referring to wooden posts and a wood lattice (not vinyl). If the lattice fencing is 4' x 8', you'll need to space the 2 postholes about 8' apart. Err on the side of spacing them a bit closer (you can always trim excess lattice).
2. Dig the 2 postholes. In cold climates you must dig 3' down, so that you'll get below the frost line. This will prevent heaving during freeze-and-thaw cycles. Even in warmer climates, consider digging to this depth to provide tall posts (7' or more) with more stability.
3. Apply 2" of crushed stone to the bottoms of the postholes for improved drainage for your lattice fence.
4. Here comes the tough part! You'll be setting 8' long 4x4 pressure-treated posts into the postholes now. However, the success of your project hinges on getting them properly aligned and plumbed, and on getting their tops to end up level with each other.
5. Begin by setting them in the holes and bracing them temporarily. Temporary braces (using scrap lumber) can be nailed to the posts to hold them up. Adjust the braces so as to get the posts roughly plumb. Place the wood lattice up against the posts.
6. If you're on level ground, use the top of the lattice fence now as a guide to determine how high you want your posts to be (but if you're working on a slope, see Tip #1 below). For instance, if you're using decorative post caps, you may wish to have the posts extend 1' above the lattice. Mark the places to cut with a pencil, then disassemble your temporary work, make the cuts, and reassemble.
7. Now that you've taken care of the height of the posts, turn your attention to alignment. Again adjust the braces so as to get the posts roughly plumb, and place the lattice fence temporarily up against the posts again, to see how well the posts line up with each other.
8. Since wood lattice is flexible, alignment does not have to be exact; but get it as close as possible, by adjusting the placement of the posts in their holes. If you measured carefully before digging the postholes, the adjustment should be minimal.
9. Satisfied with the way the posts align with one another, you can now tackle the chore of getting each post exactly plumb, all the way around, using a carpenter's level. When you've achieved this, tighten the braces, so as to hold the posts of the lattice fencing firmly in position.
10. You're finally ready for the concrete! When shopping for concrete, ask your home improvement store salesperson for the type that you just pour into the hole, dry, then soak with water.
11. Such "quick-setting" concrete doesn't have to be mixed before pouring, saving you the effort of first mixing concrete, then shoveling that heavy mix into the holes. With quick-setting concrete, you just empty the contents of the bag into the hole, then soak the concrete using a garden hose. For 3'-deep postholes you'll need about 5 bags per hole. Let the concrete cure overnight. End of Day 1.
12. Don't worry: Day 2 will be much easier! Prop the pressure-treated wood lattice up against the posts. Mark where you want to screw the lattice fencing to the posts. Still propping the wood lattice up in place, pre-drill through these marks, right into the posts. Now screw the lattice fenc onto the posts, using the holes that you pre-drilled. Trim any excess lattice hanging over the ends with a jigsaw.
13. Affix decorative post caps (if any) according to manufacturer's directions.
14. You can now plant any vine plants that you wish to train up the wood lattice screen. Flowering vines, particular, will dress up your lattice fence considerably. Just create your flower bed in front of the lattice screen, at its base.

Tips:

1. If you're working on a slope, it'll be more trouble to determine post heights. Brace the posts temporarily. Run a string with a string level from the top of the downhill post to the top of the uphill post, securing temporarily with tape. Then start bringing the uphill end down, checking to see at what point you reach level. At that point mark the uphill post, disassemble bracing, and make cut.
2. Don't install your lattice screen right smack up against an HVAC unit. Make sure there's plenty of "breathing room." This spacing will also ensure easy access should repair work need to be done on the HVAC unit.
3. You have some options with pressure-treated wood, in terms of a finish. The maintenance-free option is to let it weather to a natural finish. If "natural" isn't your thing, you could stain it or paint it. You may find it easier to do the initial staining or painting prior to installation. Of course, when it comes time to re-stain or re-paint, you won't have this option.

What You Need:

• tape measure
• carpenter's level
• string level
• posthole digger or shovel
• circular saw, jigsaw
• drill, screws
• hammer, nails
• quick-setting concrete
• two 4x4 treated posts
• 4x8 treated wood lattice

FAQ on Fence Designs

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Fence Design, Fence Construction, Fencing Materials

Types of Wood Fences

The present article on wood fences serves as an introduction to my photo gallery of fence pictures, in which I discuss examples not only of wood fences but also of alternatives to wood fences (e.g., vinyl and metal fencing).

Types of Wood Fences: How Does One Choose?

When it's time to select fencing for your property, you may be overwhelmed by how many types of wood fences and other options there are from which to choose. But the decision largely comes down to two considerations:

1. Form (i.e., stylistic considerations)
2. Function (i.e., what practical purpose the fencing will serve)

Fortunately, sometimes there is a happy marriage between form and function. But such is not always the case. For instance, chain-link fencing and other metal products often make for superior security fences. Therefore, if the intended function of your fencing is security, you may have to choose between form and function: the style of your house may cry out for a wood fence, but security concerns may convince you to go with the metal.

Types of Wood Fences: When the Focus Is on Form

In choosing between types of wood fences, consider their potential for compatibility both with your house style and with your landscape-design style. For instance:

• Split-rail wood fences and other wood fence designs marked by rough and rugged posts and rails have long been a favorite with:
  • Ranch-style houses
  • Landscape designs with a Southwestern theme (U.S.)
• Picket-style fencing seems a natural fit for:
  • Cottage-style homes
  • Landscape designs inspired by English cottage gardens

Types of Wood Fences: When the Focus Is on Function

There are special circumstances in which wood fences, despite their beauty, may not be your best choice for fencing. Sometimes, for example, a homeowner in the market for fencing needs to keep animals in the yard -- dogs, for instance. In which case, electric dog fences may be the answer. There are also times when the issue is keeping animals out of the yard -- deer, for instance. Various types of deer fencing serve this function.

Security is another practical function many homeowners demand from fencing, a function for which, as mentioned above, metal fencing is generally considered superior to wood fences.

But wood fences are an excellent choice for privacy fencing, whether it be in terms of noise barrieror, more commonly, visual barriers. Wood fences (along with their vinyl copy-cats) provide some of the most attractive fencing options available when your chief concern is creating a backyard sanctuary.

The stockade style offers an example of a wood fence design that can afford a solid visual barrier between your yard and your neighbor's, resulting in almost total privacy. While masonry work such as brick can do the same, it costs significantly more than does a wood fence.

Others prefer a compromise on privacy, choosing wood fences with a certain amount of airiness to them, to avoid fencing out the outer world altogether. Tall picket fencing, for example, can afford partial privacy, as can lattice fencing.

A popular alternative to these privacy fencing options is a hybrid wood fence design: i.e., a solid barrier for the bottom three-quarters of the fencing, with lattice on top to inject an element of airiness and decoration.

As noted above, one factor in choosing between the different types of wood fences is their potential for compatibility with one's landscape design. Solid wood fences can provide compelling backdrops for plantings, while the airier wood fence designs (e.g., split-rail and picket-style wood fences) can serve either as foregrounds or backgrounds for planting beds. Examples of how wood fences (as well as fencing composed of other materials) can work in harmony with other landscaping elements to create interest in a landscape design can be found in my photo gallery of fence pictures.

Fences, Driveways, Walkways: Design, Materials, Building, Landscaping

Information on building fences and walkways, and on driveway design and materials. Includes fence designs for different functions, popular fencing materials, professional installation versus DIY fence design, aesthetic considerations and common mistakes in building fences. Tips on driveway landscaping and on snow-removal options.

Deck Railings Part 4

Interview with Lawrence Winterburn, expert on building deck railings, continued from Part 3. On this page, Lawrence concludes the interview by providing instructions for do-it-yourselfers on how to build deck railings.

Q: This final question is meant to help the do-it-yourselfers out there. Let's say I've been building a deck for myself, and I've made it as far as finishing the decking. All that's left for me to do is building deck railings. Can you give me a brief step-by-step tutorial on how to build deck railings?

A: The simplest instructions for the do-it-yourselfer would be for installing "typical builder deck railings," as shown in this deck railing pictures:

Step 1.The steps and deck frame should be built, in place and clad with decking -- trim the decking off flush to the rim joist (outer frame member that encircles the deck).

Step 2.Cut pieces of 2x6 (upper deck railings), so that when stood up around the outside of the deck, they mimic the shape of the outer frame member. Each piece of wood has an upward curvature when on edge -- this is known as "crown." Make sure the pieces are placed crown up for better strength and visual appeal. Tack them in place temporarily with small screws or finishing nails. Keep in mind that these will be removed later when this becomes the upper part of the deck railing. Now, fasten them to each other using 3 suitable 3" deck screws or spiral ACQ nails per connection. If you need or desire to install 4x4 posts at the entrance or base of steps, this is the time to do it. The posts at the base of the steps should be at least 3' deep and keep the concrete in the bottom half of the hole. Back-fill with gravel for durability. When the time comes, you will fasten the deck railings to these posts -- but allow the concrete to set a couple of days first.

Step 3.Using a framing square, mark out the baluster positions by drawing a line every 5". Make a mark on the side of the line (normally a line or x), to indicate which side the baluster will be mounted.

Step 4.Fasten the 4 balusters at each corner of the upper deck railing with 2 ½" deck screws (for pressure-treated, use ACQ rated fasteners only; for cedar use hot-dipped galvanized fasteners).

Step 5.You will likely need a friend or two to help with the next step. You will need to have them help you lift these upper deck railings into place while you fasten a screw through the bottoms to elevate the upper deck railing into place, 42" above the deck (blocks cut to size will help hold the deck rail up).

Step 6.As you fill in the other balusters confirm vertical with a level. You will notice the more balusters are in place, the stronger the deck railing will get. When the balusters are all on, fasten to the posts by piloting a diagonal hole and using a 3" deck screw.

Think about adding a 2x6 on top and a row or two of 2x2s or 1x1s below the cap to add a functional drink rail -- and a horizontal lattice look.

About Our Expert on Deck Railings:

A career carpenter, writer and designer, Lawrence Winterburn is becoming well known in the landscape architecture field as an innovator of details and formidable designer.